Eat My Words: We review The Admiral Hornblower in Oakham
If you turned the clock back by 15 years and stepped into The Admiral Hornblower on a Monday lunchtime, you would almost certainly find me in a corner of the bar.
The pub in Oakham’s High Street was a regular haunt for myself and a colleague back then as we chatted about news stories for the week ahead and caught up on the weekend gossip.
Those weekly visits are long behind us but the Hornblower was always a popular choice for office get-togethers and still holds fond memories, so when the opportunity arose to sample its new menu, of course I was the first in line.
The Oakham pub belongs to the family-owned company Proper Pubs and reopened earlier this month following a kitchen fire in February.
Head chef Liam Brewer is now at the helm and his menu is packed with what I would term “fancy food”. This presented the perfect opportunity to step out of my foodie comfort zone and try something new.
Arriving on a Thursday lunchtime we chose to sit in one of the side rooms next to a roaring log fire. This shouldn’t have been a necessity in mid-September but the unpredictable British weather made it a very welcome feature. There is also the option to sit in the bar area if you want a livelier atmosphere.
Our waitress was friendly and attentive from the outset and we quickly made our choices. In the spirit of trying new things I opted for the buttermilk buffalo chicken lollipops with blue cheese and kohlrabi coleslaw followed by the roasted cod fillet, fondant potato, pea custard, burnt lemon gel and buttered spinach.
Blue cheese is something I tend to avoid but I must confess I was pleasantly surprised. Its salty flavour soon gave way to a spicy kick from the chicken which had a beautifully crispy skin. It was quickly polished off.
Across the table my husband had chosen the roast bone marrow, pickled shimeji mushrooms, onion soubise and toasted sourdough. For me it would have been a step too far into the unknown and I think he might have felt the same. While it was beautifully presented and the sauce tasted good, his verdict was that he wouldn’t rush to have it again.
When it came to the main course it was my turn to feel I had made the wrong choice. There was nothing wrong with the meal - the fish was flaky and the potato was crispy and flavoursome - but it just didn’t have the wow factor. I had been tempted by the chef’s cut burger with smoked cheddar and truffle mayo, but it was overruled by my determination to try something different. In hindsight, I should have gone with my instinct and the next time I visit The Hornblower, I’ll definitely be ordering the burger.
Across the table the wild mushroom arancini with a port and white Stilton sauce, tarragon, sprout leaves and roasted chestnuts was a hit. I’m not a mushroom fan but having tried a mouthful, even I would have polished off the plateful.
Our waitress returned to check if we would like to order dessert. Of course we would. My choice was the strawberry frangipane with cornflake ice cream while Paul opted for the lemongrass and lime leaf panna cotta, raspberry tea blackberries, blackberry meringue and almond shortbread. Both dishes were beautifully presented and both dishes were quickly devoured. No complaints here.
Our meals were washed down with a glass of house white (my drink of choice during those nostalgic visits) and a pint of Old Golden Hen. The drinks menu was being updated on the day of our visit so I’m sure there will be plenty of choice for those who visit in the future.
Although our visit was complimentary to mark the reopening of the pub, the cost of our three-course meal for two (excluding drinks) was £66 which was incredible value for such “fancy food”.
The Hornblower also offers a sandwich menu and caters for children with options such as chicken breast, sausages and battered haddock for young diners.
Out of five:
Food: Some unusual offerings if you fancy trying something new, all beautifully cooked and presented ****
Drink: Watch this space - the drinks menu was being updated on the day of our visit
Decor: A roaring fire, flowers on the tables and a choice of dining areas to suit your mood ****
Staff: Friendly and efficient ***
Price: Great value at £66 for three courses each ****
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