Secret Drinker reviews Shoulder of Mutton Inn in Ruskington

I wasn’t even inside before the locals provided their first laugh of the day.

This was a temperate Sunday afternoon and a group of pals were on the outdoor tables at the Shoulder of Mutton Inn, dragging on fags and chatting away until one spotted a female member of their group, hands full with drinks, attempting to get their attention through the glass pane of the front door.

Of course, when you spot a mate unable to get through a door in a pub, no hands free to tug on the knob after they’d kindly bought you a tipple, there’s only one thing to do. Stick up two fingers and taunt.

Ah, the British way, polite to your enemies and an utter git to the people you like the most.

Boringly, I wanted to get inside and was the first to relent, opening the door for the poor damsel in distress and showing the kind of chivalry that the knight behind me would have been impressed with.

Yeah, the knight.

Mounted by some round-ish tables, this brightly-coloured chap on horseback, sword in hand, caught my attention as I marched by on a previous occasion.

To use it’s correct title, Knight and Day, this was one of the Lincoln Knights Trail sculptures, 36 horsemen each designed by different artists to commemorate the 800th anniversary of the battle of Lincoln and displayed in different spots across the city.

Eight years ago they were all sold off at auction, raising almost £200,000 for a homeless charity. Which is presumably how this Sir found its way to Ruskington, Lincolnshire’s largest village.

With a population of about 6,000, this village supports three pubs, and there was plenty of signs of life packing into the numerous rooms that make up the wonderfully-named Shoulder of Mutton, a boozer which was a butcher’s shop in its previous life (apparently there are still some hooks up behind the bar, but I didn’t see them).

Getting served was a struggle as two chaps propped up the bar in front, one guy bemoaning how badly his son’s junior footie team had performed that morning and another who, every time it appeared he was off with his pint, would turn on his heels to make another observation to the lady behind the bar.

Still, this wait allowed me time to check out the specials board and realise the bloke sat on his own below it had decided that he was going to get his day’s entertainment by trying to stare me out.

Tragically, the two drinks I had an internal debate about which to order had both sold out long before the chalk on the board was wiped.

“But we do have this,” the barmaid said, pointing to a tap with a Brains Skull Attack logo attached. No debate anymore, my decision was made for me.

Despite managing to bang my head on a low doorway, I navigated the winding space in the pub until finding a small enclave with a comfy sofa, brightly-lit jukebox and big screen showing Nottingham Forest getting battered by Newcastle United.

The audible moans and murmurs from next door made it clear the place was rooting for the boys in red but not so much for their new manager.

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With its low beams, warm and intimate smaller rooms and obsession with red cushioning on the benches, the Shoulder of Mutton had a very traditional village pub feel, and it was delightful to see the place abuzz with people and chat.

Just how things should be - give or take the scoreline - I’m sure those near me would agree.

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By the time I’d finished my drink an even larger crowd had gathered around the knight, laughing loudly.

Behind them was a canoe-turned-planter signalling a Liverpool to Goole (insert own joke here) fundraiser for LIVES that had been carried out by a couple of locals.

Community spirit at a community pub. The perfect place to flick a V at your struggling mate.

SHOULDER OF MUTTON, CHURCH STREET, RUSKINGTON, NG34 9DU

DECOR: An old fashioned, good old traditional village pub look. 3/5

DRINK: My Brains SA was one of those easy to drink ales you could comfortably dispatch of in three gulps. Smooth but not the most flavoursome. 3/5

PRICE: I paid £4.20. 3/5

ATMOSPHERE: The place was was nice and full for a Sunday with plenty going on. 4/5

STAFF: The chap and lady behind the bar were very welcoming but I didn’t have much to do with them, unlike the bloke in front of me. 3/5

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